“The media are instrumental in the process of gaining public consent. Media texts never simply mirror or reflect reality, but instead construct hegemonic definitions of what should be accepted as reality.”
Iconic Emblems of Female identity: Prophets of Post-Feminism or Puppets of the Patriarchy?
I want to look at the ways in which the media manipulate public conception of social ideals and cultural representations. In particular, the ways in which highly gendered, overly produced and highly constructed female celebrity persona’s present packaged attitudes to the media consumer. The ideologies suggested by these celebrity iconic females are often constructed from a foundation beyond the ideal representation of woman you see on the stage before you. These ideologies in fact have been heavily crafted to seduce consumers into a comfortable position of non-resistance.
The two cases in study are highly gendered depictions of women in mass mediated popular culture, pop music performance artist Lady Gaga and burlesque icon Dita Von Teese. I will argue that the facets of a new kind of feminism suggested by Gaga and Von Teese are borrowed , distorted, parodied and marketed as accessible attitudes for young women, ironically wrought with contradictions that render them hegemonic. (Shugart & Wagonner, 2001)
Through the misrepresentation of principles of post-feminism, third wave feminism and the phenomena of Girl Power (or an amalgamation of all three), the consumer is fed a constructed set of attitudes that imply progressive movement but are so contradictory that they have the opposite effect and work to compliment an antifeminist system. By appealing to the interests of a demographic of consumers and dressing up commercialism as a brand new feminism, there is an adverse reaction. The message is confused and consumers are lulled into believing that they celebrate and even partake in socially progressive antics, but in actuality they are nullified by means of paradoxical contradiction.
I will discuss, in particular, these characteristics of assumed new feminism and explain the ways in which they are negated:
I. reclaiming traditional modes of femininity that would be considered tyrannous by second wave feminists in a way that implies subversive politics, (e.g. Highly maintained femininity, fetish fashion, wonder bras and makeup) whilst being heavily immersed in popular glamour culture and the fashion industry (e.g. Eccentric and exclusive costumes, branding an image.)
II. largely interested in sex – positivity, sexual self exposure and female empowerment (e.g. burlesque performance and sexualized video clips)
By analyzing these elements of Von Teese and Gaga through the eyes of the consumer to whom they are marketed, I will discuss these facets of a new feminism and how iconic representations of women are used as marketing tools to sell not only products but a values system and in turn implement a patriarchal value system. I will expose the very obvious nature of conflicting motions in Von Teese and Gaga’s attitudes and in doing so unveil the industrial construction of celebrity for the sake of capitalism and reinforcing patriarchal values.
Looking at the characteristics I have described above, it is not difficult to correlate such ideals with representations you have seen in popular culture. They are out in the thousands, young female celebrities who are unafraid exhibitionists, self assured, stiletto donning, corseted, sequined, girlishly glamorous, outspoken about sexual diversity and blasé about gender bending, ‘don’t take no shit’ daughters of divas who own the pop scene and stick it to the authorities, refusing to fit into heteronormative housewife and homemaker boxes. From Lindsay Lohan to the Pussy Cat Dolls, from Pink to Lily Allen, pop culture icons are announcing their power as sexual and feminine entities that define their values on their own terms in magazines and on television screens around the world.
It is difficult to deny then, that this excess of confrontational ‘in your face’ feminine sexuality vogue resembles characteristics of feminist beliefs that followed the backlash of second wave feminism.
The three movements I will refer to are post-feminism, third wave feminism and Girl Power discourse. What I am analyzing is the implicit facets of these three movements that seem to appear in representations of women in the media and not the movements’ themselves. However, in order to understand how such beliefs are represented in icons such as Von Teese and Gaga, it is important to recognize the origins of these social movements.
Post feminism, coined in the 1980’s, was used to explain a counterattack against second wave feminism, adopting an analytical approach to subsequent feminist discourse and spoke for women who essentially concurred with the ambitions of feminism, but did not identify as feminists per se. (Rosen, 2000) Post feminism supposes, amongst other ideas, that gender is an artifice, a constructed image and therefore performative in its very nature. It is this supposition that I will examine further on.
Third Wave Feminism, beginning in the early 1990’s, sought to dispute definitions of femininity set out by second wave feminism, which repeatedly classified women with a unanimous female identity, which was predominantly middle class and white. This approach lets women identify their feminist ideals on their own terms, embracing gender diversity, sex positivity and self assurance. (Freedman, 2003)
The Girl Power discourse, taking the lead in the 1990’s with icons like The Spice Girls and Xena the Warrior Princess denotes a sprawling media culture that tells women they can be empowered by identifying as conventional feminine objects and at the same time as strong feminist agents. Power is achieved by the use of sexuality and beauty over men and through the expression of one’s determination. (Zaslow, 2006)
Born out of these movements and into the celebrity spotlight is a copy cat medley of common ideals represented in highly produced icons like Von Teese and Gaga, that highlight the concept of individual success but seem to ignore the objective of collective political outcomes. For the sake of succinctness I will refer to this set of amalgamated ideals expressed through Von Teese and Gaga as new feminism.
In this development, power comes from the “choice making of individuals rather than from structural supports or systematic change.” (Zaslow, 2006) These icons communicate a laid back freedom and power over their selves, flaunting material symbols of wealth and femininity that make up their ‘individual’ identities.
Lady Gaga and Dita Von Teese, paradoxically, whilst using the language of choice and freedom, delegate a narrow set of hegemonic options for young women with which to build their own gender identities.
Role Models Remodeled: Reclaiming Traditional Modes of femininity: Subversion or Slave to the System?
“Imagine being considered not for your mind but for how you look. Sort of fun, don’t you think?” Dita Von Teese
New Feminism (representing ideals of Third Wave, Post feminism and Girl Power) celebrates conventional ways of being feminine, particularly in the sense of the aesthetic. To be pretty and lord it over men is a powerful weapon in mass mediated culture.
This new creed of thought promotes the idea that a woman can be feminine and sexual and not be confined to the trappings that traditional femininity once bore. New feminism makes extreme femininity subversive, as if to say – I assume this image because I like it and I feel powerful. Men are attracted to my femininity, but I make my own choices.
My cases in study typify this dolled up aesthetic, whilst still touting their independence from patriarchal control. However, in replicating this tenet of new feminism, as products of the marketing industry and therefore rife with conflict in their message, these icons fail to substantiate any real grounds for political action.
On visiting
www.ladygaga.com, I was transported into a glittery galactic and highly gendered experience. Gaga stipulates she is going to – “infiltrate human culture one sequin at a time”, instantly defining her power through unfettered feminine guiles. (www.ladygaga.com)
I was mesmerized by images of decidedly stylized pulp culture femininity, an avante garde pop fashionista extravaganza. YouTube clips, interviews proclaiming her love of fashion, clinging costumes of neon colours, thunder bolts, diamante leotards and legs in heels flashed all over the webpage. The site is littered with highly produced and synthesized music and it’s Gaga leading the procession of pop with the lyrics “Lets have some fun, this beat is sick, I wanna take a ride on your disco stick”.
Instantly, there is a persona emerging for the consumer to indentify with.
The system of Celebrity is at work. (Marshall, 1997)
Marshall suggests that, driven by the culture industry, celebrities “transform and transfigure themselves… present a moving subjectivity… enigma about their authentic selves” (Marshall 1997)
The idea is that there is a concept of “individualism” at work, where the persona of Gaga is constructed and sold to audiences as a feminine ideal. Bold, brash and over stylized.
In her “Poker face” video clips she is writhing by a poolside in scant and provocative outfits, donning the dress codes of the conventional feminine aesthetic, where the female body is the focus. She sings about winning over lovers and being the all powerful young female icon of self determination.
What these images put across is power in traditional modes of aesthetic femininity emerging from wealth and individual choice. Lacking, however, is the shared desire for real social change. The extremely feminized images fail to communicate the political backdrop of new feminism and its indefinable nature and only propose a limited set of ideals for women to relate to. A white, middle class beauty that is attainable through wealth.
The sexualized female body is the focus, and feminist politics take a back seat. The ideals that are appropriated by Gaga are rendered a masquerade of new feminism and ultimately negate the purpose they appear to have. Furthermore, as endorsement vehicles of brands such as M A C cosmetics and Wonder bra, Gaga and Von Teese merely propose ideals of power in femininity for the purpose of capitalism, inserting them into the dominant paradigm and making use of them as puppets of patriarchal values.
Upon visiting Dita Von Teese’s webpage, I noticed she is constructed of an old world aesthetic, a vintage darling with an overt and glamorized feminine sexuality.
Von Teese with her passion for corsetry has been known to cinch down to 16 inch waist, has fervor for fetish costume and traditional feminine attire such as stockings and lingerie. With red lips, stiletto heels and classic pin up dress code, she sports an aesthetic that draws on the concept of individualism, advertising her persona within the culture industry.
“She is one of a kind. She is the biggest name in Burlesque since Gypsy Rose Lee. She tops international Best Dressed lists. She is a modern day Fashion Icon. She inspires designers from Marc Jacobs and John Galliano to Jean Paul Gaultier and Zac Posen. She is credited for bringing back the glamour and allure of Old Hollywood stars. Self-created. Distinctive. Iconic. Flawless. Often imitated, never duplicated. She is Dita Von Teese.” (
www.dita.net)
“Women’s engagement with their looks is interpreted as imposed by patriarchy for men’s gratification” (Frost 1999) however Von Teese suggests that the notion of women enjoying hyper femininity is liberating. (Betts, 2006)
Von Teese stars on YouTube in glossy lingerie ads and striptease burlesque performances and in interviews where she promotes her created femininity. The idea behind this constructed beauty has a vague resemblance to subversive notions of post feminism of performative gender as an artificial craft. “I use make-up and hair and all these magical feminine tools to create something I am not. I like the idea of artificial beauty…dying my hair black and wearing make up and heels is a security thing for me. I feel completely strange (without it). This is what I do. This is what makes me me.” (Betts, 2006)
At first glance one might mistake this apparent subverting of gender paradigm as new feminism, reflective of post feminist ideas of reclaiming a connection to feminine beauty and power. What becomes more obvious at closer speculation is that Von Teese only promotes one type of beauty ideal and performed gender. A westernized feminine beauty ideal that is only a marginalized percentage of the femininity post feminism celebrates.
The system of celebrity (Marshall, 1997) places these feminine aesthetic goals in the realm of capitalism by Von Teese’s endorsement of beauty products and bosom enhancing undergarments, ultimately making her a marketing vehicle of not only products but a set of attitudes, hence part of a patriarchal value system. She can appeal to a set demographic with her monochrome beauty and sell products accordingly. She proposes a tenet of new feminism that may seem appealing to a group and therefore assumes iconic status of that group’s ideals and interests, but celebrates new feminism through individual action and falls short of any collective social movement. By binding this one type of gendered beauty to what is thought to be a new feminist thought and doing it conspicuously through a celebrity persona, the belief is rendered hegemonic.
Showing the girl: She only reveals what she wants you to see
“Being a woman in the pop world, sexuality is half poison, half liberation. What’s the line? I don’t have a line. I am the most sexually free woman on the planet, and I am genuinely empowered from a very honest place by my sexuality. What’s more primal than sex? I mean, it’s so honest. If I didn’t think I had the talent to back that up, I wouldn’t have done it.” (Lady Gaga)
Sex positivity is a big part of new feminism. There is much importance placed on women exploring the freedom and self navigation of their sexuality’s and sexual expression, to be in control of their bodies, the ways in which they are sexualized and the ways in which they are sexually revealed.
Both Lady Gaga and Dita Von Teese personify glamorized and self determined overt sexual expression that rings true with the new feminist tenet of sex positivity.
Von Teese, as the iconic spokesperson for modern Burlesque, herald’s sex positivity and feminine sexual expression as a way of “women being inspired to find their inner bombshell and have fun with it” (Von Teese), giving them a sense of sexual empowerment.
In order to unveil the contradictory nature of these appropriations of new feminist characteristics, I want to briefly put burlesque dancing in a historical context as to examine the political suggestions behind the art form, and then highlight the discrepancies with the modern versions of such politics we see in Von Teese’s burlesque performance and concurrently in Von Teese as a celebrity persona entity.
Burlesque was considered a bawdy type of theatre later transpiring into striptease that flourished between 1840 and 1960. The first female burlesque performers “instigated public debate on the proper display of female sexuality and forever changed the face of theatre.” (Pullen, 2005) Burlesque was originally a male dominated arena and the addition of women into the picture brought up conflicts about the kinds of theatre women could participate in.
“Lydia Thompson and the British Blondes (one of the first all female burlesque troupes) were reviled in the press as…real threats to both US-American womanhood and theatrical tradition. The Blondes, inadequately described by labels of actress, whore or feminist, offered new ways to think about female sexuality, ones that exceeded familiar narratives.” (Pullen 2005)
Early burlesque was controversial as women performers often played the roles of men and the humour was tongue- in-cheek, laced with sexual innuendo and vulgarity. The revealing costumes drew attention to female sexuality.
What has made burlesque feminist is its unashamed spirit of sexual revolution. Burlesque displays the female body but supports female sexuality from within rather than concentrating on a limited concept of beauty that represents only objectified bodies that exclusively match westernized standards of beauty. It discards the conception that sexuality can only be established within the narrow range of western male ideals and instead acknowledges the sexual appeal of all women.
Von Teese advocates these ideals but she herself is constructed in such a way that ultimately cancels them out. The paradox lies in the fact that the burlesque icon, Dita Von Teese, supposedly representing the subversive nature of this new feminist celebration of women, epitomizes the westernized standards of conventional feminine beauty that burlesque is said to refuse. Von Teese assumes this facet of new feminism at a surface level, but only offers one form of beauty for women to regale in: a white, middle class, thin and surgically enhanced femininity. By only offering this standard of beauty and failing to represent the plethora of diverse femininities that burlesque is said to celebrate, the ideals of new feminism that are appropriated by iconic media persona’s, in this case Von Teese, are distorted and sold back to the consumer and in turn become antithesis of what they claim to be.
Lady Gaga exemplifies a similar irony in her video clip ‘Paparazzi’.
The clip starts off as a farce of an old style film, set in a beautiful villa with a balcony that over looks the ocean. The scene is picturesque and refers to glamorous and affluent lifestyle. The romantic opening scene sees Gaga is depicted as the celebrity star; the man we assume is her boyfriend is Paparazzi. They are in bed entwined in each others arms. Gaga asks “Do you love me?” He answers “Of course I do”. They engage in a passionate embrace as he slowly removes items of Gaga’s ultra feminine and glamorous clothing. He carries her outside and sits her in the edge of the wall of the balcony where they continue to kiss and touch in a highly sexualized manner. Photos are being snapped of the two on the balcony. The scene escalates, becoming dramatic, his kissing becomes more forceful and rushed and she asks him to stop. He keeps going; she struggles to get away until he bashes her and throws her off the balcony.
Whilst Gaga defines her sexuality as “fierce”, and her music empowering to women, exemplifying tenets of new feminism by way of overtly sexualized and glamorized imagery in her video clips, Paparazzi contradicts the values Gaga seemingly stands for.
With images of rampant sexualized violence, Gaga only serves to illustrate that even though such tenets of new feminism may be represented by her celebrity persona, there is no real social change, and women are still victims’ of the trivialization of rape crimes in the media. With the mixture of sexuality and violence and hints of brutality, the difficulty in differentiating between the passionate embrace in the beginning and the violence that follows and a number of women featuring in the clip that appear to be dead or injured in sexy clothing, ( Sut Jhally, 2009) the resolve for any type of resistance to the patriarchy is reversed.
As mediums of mass marketing, both Gaga and Von Teese personify a particular set of ideals so that they appeal to a generation of interests. Sex positivity and sexual self exposure are appropriated in the examples I have given and marketed to the consumer but are rife with contradiction, causing them to enforce patriarchal values rather than free women from them.
I have shown you the ways highly gendered representations of females in mediated popular culture adopt codes of new feminism (post-feminism, third wave feminism and Girl Power discourse). These packaged ideals are marketed with such inconsistency that ultimately these appropriated feminist values are decorated, commodified, and put on the market for us in a way that render them hegemonic. The viewpoints they project are presented to the consumer with such oscillating contradiction that they become akin to the dominant paradigm they appear to resist. The result is that feminism is misrepresented by popular culture production into an organized array of cultural signifiers that carry meanings of individual autonomy related to feminism but do not equal an actual social change.